Tasting Notes
Give this wine some time in the glass and you will be rewarded by beautiful evolution and depth.
It is a deep ruby with subtle orange reflexes. The nose is big, complex and very warm, showing dried fruit but also the typical herbs of a hot Mediterranean summer day: thyme, rosemary, lavender and minty aromas. Even the scent of sun-parched dry earth comes to mind. Then there is coffee and dark chocolate, and – surprisingly - white pepper.
In the mouth firm tannins paired with juicy acidity give this wine a beautiful structure that embraces its warm flavours and powerful elegance. Definitely mouth filling while the memory of dark chocolate lingers towards the finish.
The long finish makes me yearn for the next sip and the next. Of course Sangiovese typically is meant to be enjoyed with food, but with this one I seem to not need any, I could gladly go on savouring, discovering new layers with each sip.
This evocative and more-ish tasting note is by Esther from Vino-Vistas.
Harvest Notes
It is no secret that 2017 was a tough vintage in Montalcino.
January was wonderfully cold, with night temperatures as low as -6 C (21F) but by March temperatures were 2.5 degrees celsius warmer than "normal" (hitting 22C/71.6F) and we had had half the usual rainfall. The vintage set off at a canter, catching everyone rather by surprise. Budbreak in Castelnuovo was on 16th March, it took place ten days later at Le Due Porte. April continued to be warm until the end of the month when there was a late freeze, utterly devastating for some areas of Tuscany.
From 1st January to 31st May we had just 126 ml of rainfall (for comparison in 2015 we received 292 mm, see full report here). The summer was punishingly hot and dry, the only positive being that these conditions also mean zero issues or intervention for mildew. Deciduous trees lost their leaves months ahead of time; oaks were orange-tipped, cereal crops harvested early and the land was parched. We made huge efforts with canopy management. In our lowest vineyard rather than topping the vines we bent the fronds over to form a natural parasol so as to reduce water stress by not stimulating growth. Nevertheless, some of our grapes were horribly shrivelled on the side receiving most sun yet others in the same vineyard unscathed. La Vecchia, our oldest vineyard, fared well thanks to developed root systems.
It was the hottest June in 15 years although in spite of temperatures hitting 36 C (96,8 F) nights were still relatively cool 18 C (64,4 F). By July the heatwave was given the name Lucifero by the press which gives a clear idea of its character. At Il Palazzone we had terrible wild boar incursions since the beasts were crazed by the drought. In fact after the difficulties of harvest 2017 we fenced off the entire property at Le Due Porte. On 25th July there was a hailstorm which struck Le Due Porte but fortunately the damage was limited. There was a storm on 13th August, a phenomenon which sometimes foreshadows the end of summer, but in 2017 day-time temperatures stayed above 30°C. Night-time temps were half that, so decent conditions for ripening. Finally in September we had some rain, good drying tramontane winds and an ever increasing day night temperature swing; basically the perfect combination of condition to mitigate the effects of the heat, plump up the raisiny grapes, stabilise phenolics and find balance. We picked at Castelnuovo on 13th and 16th September and at Le Due Porte on the 20th. This was the first time in our history that we ever brought in Le Due Porte before October (check out the gorgeous grapes here) and it was our earliest ever start-date for picking. As always our vibrating sort table proved to be invaluable, along with the nimble fingers and watchful eyes of four loyal members of #teamilpalazzone.
In 2017 we elected not to make our single vineyard Le Due Porte, nor did we produce a Riserva choosing to focus only on our vintage production. We made a third less of our normal production, just 9.521 bottles, in this challenging vintage.
Reviews
JOHN FODERA'S TUSCAN VINES March 2022 91-93 points
Medium ruby. Lots of cherries, spices and soft sandalwood notes on the nose. Crushed cherry, cigar leaf and toasted spices on the palate. Another fresh, elegant and almost medium bodied Brunello in the Burgundian style.
Medium ruby. Lots of cherries, spices and soft sandalwood notes on the nose. Crushed cherry, cigar leaf and toasted spices on the palate. Another fresh, elegant and almost medium bodied Brunello in the Burgundian style.
JAMESSUCKLING.COM – August 2022 - 93 PTS (J.S.)
Lots of ripe berry and sandalwood, with some licorice on the nose. Full-bodied and layered with bark, mushroom and wet earth, with some balsamic undertones to the fruit. Big, yet not overly tannic. Drink or hold.
Lots of ripe berry and sandalwood, with some licorice on the nose. Full-bodied and layered with bark, mushroom and wet earth, with some balsamic undertones to the fruit. Big, yet not overly tannic. Drink or hold.
JANCIS ROBINSON February 2022 17++
Brooding nose with a clear, minerally edge. Very embryonic right now. A tight palate with a rich layer of tannins and subtle, juicy acidity. Firmly structured, yet finely balanced. This will need more time. Drink 2024 – 2032. Walter Speller
Brooding nose with a clear, minerally edge. Very embryonic right now. A tight palate with a rich layer of tannins and subtle, juicy acidity. Firmly structured, yet finely balanced. This will need more time. Drink 2024 – 2032. Walter Speller
WINE ADVOCATE February 2022 91 points
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino has some brambly fruit and forest floor with sweet tones of spice and spent ember. Overall, the aromas are subdued and not overdone, despite the riper fruit profile and concentration that was obtained in this vintage. Il Palazzone's wines all seem to have a savory comment that reminds me of mesquite or mahogany. Exactly 9,521 bottles are hitting the market now. Drink 2024-2035. Monica Larner
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino has some brambly fruit and forest floor with sweet tones of spice and spent ember. Overall, the aromas are subdued and not overdone, despite the riper fruit profile and concentration that was obtained in this vintage. Il Palazzone's wines all seem to have a savory comment that reminds me of mesquite or mahogany. Exactly 9,521 bottles are hitting the market now. Drink 2024-2035. Monica Larner
WINE ENTHUSIAST February 2022 93 points
Elegantly structured this lovely red has scents recalling camphor, blue flowers, dark spice and coffee bean. Smooth and savory, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise set against taut, polished tannins. Drink 2025–2029. Kerin O'Keefe
Elegantly structured this lovely red has scents recalling camphor, blue flowers, dark spice and coffee bean. Smooth and savory, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise set against taut, polished tannins. Drink 2025–2029. Kerin O'Keefe
DECANTER January 2022 91 points
While located just outside the town of Montalcino at 540 metres above sea level, Il Palazzone also owns two vineyard plots in the southern area of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The estate’s Brunello rarely exceed 14% and the 2017 is a surprisingly moderate 13.61%. Bright plum blossoms give pretty contrast to earthy brushwood and chestnut aromas, and the palate demonstrates pure orchard fruit. This may not have the depth of the most profound Brunello, but it is vivacious, juicy and charming – not an easy feat in 2017. Drinking window: 2022-2028. Michaela Morris
While located just outside the town of Montalcino at 540 metres above sea level, Il Palazzone also owns two vineyard plots in the southern area of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The estate’s Brunello rarely exceed 14% and the 2017 is a surprisingly moderate 13.61%. Bright plum blossoms give pretty contrast to earthy brushwood and chestnut aromas, and the palate demonstrates pure orchard fruit. This may not have the depth of the most profound Brunello, but it is vivacious, juicy and charming – not an easy feat in 2017. Drinking window: 2022-2028. Michaela Morris
TASTED.WINE January 2022 92 points
Medium deep ruby red colour. Complex nose, traditional style with long oak ageing, red cherry, cedar wood, tobacco and dry spices. Ample palate, structured within a fresh frame, sour cherries, yet some mature sweetness, spicy with tobacco and leather flavours, present, but rounded tannin leading to a long persistent finish, still young but great ageing potential. Andreas Larsson
Medium deep ruby red colour. Complex nose, traditional style with long oak ageing, red cherry, cedar wood, tobacco and dry spices. Ample palate, structured within a fresh frame, sour cherries, yet some mature sweetness, spicy with tobacco and leather flavours, present, but rounded tannin leading to a long persistent finish, still young but great ageing potential. Andreas Larsson
WINE ALIGN December 2021 93 points
A crescent moon of a Brunello Annata, partially formed with curves and angles, showing an asymmetrical symmetry as only a poetic sangiovese of this ilk may do. There's an herbal quality and ulterior style that captures imagination while also doling out the fruits of bosco, noce and earth. A veritable spice, dried fruits and nuts market in a glass of Sangiovese. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2021. Michael Godel.
A crescent moon of a Brunello Annata, partially formed with curves and angles, showing an asymmetrical symmetry as only a poetic sangiovese of this ilk may do. There's an herbal quality and ulterior style that captures imagination while also doling out the fruits of bosco, noce and earth. A veritable spice, dried fruits and nuts market in a glass of Sangiovese. Drink 2022-2027. Tasted November 2021. Michael Godel.
VINOUS December 2021
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is both savory and sweet, with sour cherry and plum contrasted by confectionary spices and rosy florals. It’s soft in texture and lifted, with ripe mineral-tinged berries under an air of lavender and violet. The cheeks pucker through the long and structured finale, where fine tannins dominate, and a note of hard red candies linger on. This is an excellent effort for the vintage.
2023-2027 Eric Guido
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is both savory and sweet, with sour cherry and plum contrasted by confectionary spices and rosy florals. It’s soft in texture and lifted, with ripe mineral-tinged berries under an air of lavender and violet. The cheeks pucker through the long and structured finale, where fine tannins dominate, and a note of hard red candies linger on. This is an excellent effort for the vintage.
2023-2027 Eric Guido
IL GOLOSARIO November 2021
È notevole l’interpretazione del Palazzone, dal colore rubino, ha nota balsamica che fa da sottofondo donando eleganza ai profumi tipici di ciliegia e prugna, note di frutti bosco, e in particolare ribes, sorso caldo e armonico.
È notevole l’interpretazione del Palazzone, dal colore rubino, ha nota balsamica che fa da sottofondo donando eleganza ai profumi tipici di ciliegia e prugna, note di frutti bosco, e in particolare ribes, sorso caldo e armonico.
WINECRITICS.COM November 2021
Warm and well-matured in the sensory profile showing notes of black prunes, salted caramel, chopped mushrooms and wet earth. Full bodied, tannins soft and well distended in the matrix and a broad character with horizontal character. Well made. Drink now.
91 points - Raffaele Vecchione
Warm and well-matured in the sensory profile showing notes of black prunes, salted caramel, chopped mushrooms and wet earth. Full bodied, tannins soft and well distended in the matrix and a broad character with horizontal character. Well made. Drink now.
91 points - Raffaele Vecchione
GARDINI NOTES October 2021
A small, refined boutique winery located just south of Montalcino, able to interpret the north-east area of the denomination with rigor and subtlety. Nose of raspberry, with hints of undergrowth and toasted dried fruit. Mouthfeel with sapid tannins, finish of persistence.
94 points - Luca Gardini
A small, refined boutique winery located just south of Montalcino, able to interpret the north-east area of the denomination with rigor and subtlety. Nose of raspberry, with hints of undergrowth and toasted dried fruit. Mouthfeel with sapid tannins, finish of persistence.
94 points - Luca Gardini